November 12th, 2012 by Darin
It’s been a while since I’ve re-posted one of my old scotch reviews, so to re-commence: something trusty—a Speyside . . .
The Tormore 12 is a comely malt: its thick, brassy skins only barely conceal full-bellied, golden highlights. In a tumbler, the Tormore catches ambient light greedily in the nebulous, bronzed wedge of its heart.
The nose is only moderately phenolic, and it predominantly offers a sweet, doughy aroma—one sweeter than is characteristic of most other Speysides. Layered under this hearthy perfume are suggestions of heathered cream, ripe currant, and sharp cherry.
This palate is bright and active. It arrives with bittersweet cocoa and soured apple—a dry, dusty drink.
The Tormore finishes long and hot, reminiscent of the famously long-winded Springbank. The diminuendo of this whisky’s flavors is a dark, heavy counterpoint to the drink’s spritely palate.
The aftertaste tarries in charred sugars and bitters—a dying, medicinal spike their only company.
On a scale of 1-5, I rate the Tormore 12-year a 3 1/2. It is a complex and beguiling whisky that easily outperforms many other 12s; however, the aftertaste is overstated, and the Tormore lacks some of the hot, sugared cinnamons on the palate that are commonly the hallmark of a quality Speyside. The Tormore tastes more like the geographical convergence of Lowland and High than an actual Speyside.*
*The Speyside region actually is more-or-less the convergence of the Lowlands and the Highlands. However, the whiskies that originate here are usually so much more than the meeting of High- and Lowland malts.